Fifty years ago, Dr Dorian Paskowitz dropped out of society and embarked on a 14-year global surfing safari, raising nine children in a 24ft camper van, and catching every wave he could. Doc passed away at 93 on November 10th, 2014 in Newport Beach, surrounded by family. We were honored to have had the opportunity to work with Doc on his column as he shared his wisdom, stories and stoke with our riders. He was to his last days full of the vitality that he wrote about. Below is an archive of his last posts on his philosophies on skateboarding, surfing and life. He will be deeply missed.
THE SPIRIT OF STOKE
We all want to live life to the fullest, discount cialis but of course the question is, sildenafil how to do this? Health, happiness, and peace are the greatest of vibes, but what about just having fun? To have a full life a man or woman must have some type of joyful, energetic recreation, a way to invigorate his or her spirit each day. What I want to say to my surfing buddies is that you can double your stoke by learning to surf on the sidewalk when you are not in the water, and nothing gives that feeling of surfing on land more than the Carver Skateboard. As a surfer for over 75 years I always dreamed that someday there would be a true “sidewalk surfboard”.
I’m 93 now, and few years ago I was given a Carver by my son Abraham. I had not been on a skateboard since 1973, but after I got on it I had to keep riding! It pulled my down the line of my imaginary wave. I could feel a much younger me on this sidewalk surfboard thirty years ago doing roundhouse cutbacks, off the lips and snapping turns off curbs. You can transfer that expertise to your surfboard next time you paddle out at Salt Creek, San Onofre, or even Queens at Waikiki. All you need is your skateboard, your surfboard, and stoke. However, the stoke has to come from you. It is priceless and comes from your heart. Stoke is the soul of recreation, and recreation is the light of life. It burns most brightly when we are doing something we love to do.
I will say good bye to you all with this thought.
Keep Skating with Aloha,
Dear Dr. Paskowitz, discount cialis
You have been a huge inspiration for me. i grew up in Jersey, and when i was 11 years old my family and i moved to Greece.Unfortunately we didn’t get lots of waves all year round.
Surfing is my life, it’s the last thought before i go to sleep, and the first thought when i wake up! I want to move to California. it’s been going around my head for the past couple of years. I’m 30 years old now, and a graphic designer, but i don’t know what exactly I would like to do for a living. The only thing i know for sure is that i want surfing to be part of my life!
So should i go for it? (i think i already know the answer…)
Thank you for everything!
A Big Surf Fan
My Dear Joey,
Thank you for your warm letter. Your passion for surfing will always lead you in the right direction it’s just a matter of timing. Unfortunately, “ The bird of time has but a little way to fly, and lo, the bird is on the wing.” Go for it Joey! Follow your passion.
With Aloha Doc
What has inspired you to stay so loyal to surfing for over 80 years and at 93 years young do you still surf?
After 75 years I am still totally bewitched by the ocean and the waves that roll in. When catching a wave there is a moment in the ride when you give yourself completely to the glide of the unbroken swell of moving ocean water. It is a time in this magical sequence we call ‘living’ that one is able to actually feel the laws of nature at work, viagra when wind and sunlight give to the sea this bundle of energy. We take a moment in time to capture this energy, to glide with the universe on a surfboard. It is this feeling of companionship with Mother Nature that gives the surfer a connection to the ocean unlike any other.
Do I still surf today? The answer is both Yes and No. When the sun is out, the water is warm and the waves are friendly, I still try. There is a love between me and our mother ocean that is built on mutual respect. When the waves and weather tell me not to go, I listen. At 93, when the earth and sky are warm and welcoming I hear the sea beckon me to venture out, and knowing that this may forever be my last ride, I am happy to oblige the cosmos.
What is one of your most memorable California surf sessions?
It was the Beast of a Wave, cialis sales January 14, viagra generic 1939. It was called Big Wednesday three days before. The sea was gigantic and still. My buddy Lloyd Baker and I drove up to San Onofre and we were the only ones there. But no matter how hard or how long we tried, we simply could not get out beyond the giant wall of whitewater. We tried for one great hour but to no avail, so we went down to Sunset Cliffs in San Diego. Three guys from Ocean Beach were already there; Kimble Dawn, Little Lord Nelson, and Skeeter Malcolm had paddled out earlier that morning, and in the deeper water they could skirt around the breaker line. However once they got out they simply could not get in safely. The Coast Guard had to come around Point Loma to rescue them. And now WE were going try to tame that beastly wave! Lloyd and I paddled out in a channel that was deep enough to float a cruise ship. When we got out in the gray misty morning, no lines between sky and sea, a great mountain of water seemed to grow in front of us! Up, up, up we paddled, barely making over the cresting giant. The next wave that came was much, much smaller so Lloyd and I both caught it and rode it all the way to shore. After I carried my board over the slippery rocks and boulders onto dry land I knelt down and kissed the ground and murmured to myself “Thank the Lord.” In over 75 years of surfing that was the second largest wave I ever encountered.
Hey Doc, generic cialis
What would you say is central to health and happiness? I’m landlocked for now and don’t get to surf as much as I used to. I am still trying to find the serenity that I experienced when surfing, that would make me feel centered. I have touched on it briefly but can’t quite get there, just something about the ocean. Do you have any advice for those of us who are landlocked?
My Dear Surfer Friend,
You have really asked me two questions: one, how can I achieve health and happiness? and two, how can I be a part of surfing even though I am landlocked? Health requires attention to the five basic principles of
superior well-being: diet, exercise, rest, recreation, and attitudes of mind— habits which must be done every day of your life and all together. How can you “surf” in a landlocked area? I am pleased to say that the Carver
skateboard is a way of sidewalk surfing that benefits your surfing skills and closely mimics the movements of surfing -whether you are near the waves or away from them. The key to all of this is the mental attitude— wanting to be healthy and wanting to keep connected to your surfing roots through skateboarding. Keep surfing with Aloha Doc
Well, well, that is a very interesting question. Ah yes, inspired, but it’s not one person; at varies stages of my life it was several people. For example, in 1933 the very first of the inspirational people on the beach was a mute lifeguard named Leroy Colombo, who rented surfboards at Murdock Bathhouse in Galveston Island just 50 miles off the coast near Houston. Even when he was 12 years of age he was tan and muscular. He was my hero, so much so that within a year and a half I had talked my family into going all the way to California, where I saw these beautiful, beautiful waves.
Then I heard about Duke Kahanamoku he was my great hero-he still is by the way-anyway, I dreamed someday I would meet him, and low and behold in 1939 I did meet him, and we became friends. I had him hold all my children after they were born. I once traveled across the waters from Oahu to Molokai at 12 midnight in a little boat with the Duke. He was such a great man, tall and elegant.
After that I met the guy who was my competitor for many years, Pete Peterson. Oddly enough, he came from a little town close to mine in Texas. He was a tall skinny guy; as Duke was dark, he was fair. You could almost see through him. Pete Peterson was the great waterman of my time. He did not like me by the way! Pete was such a great paddler, such a great surfer. He was the lieutenant of the lifeguards in Santa Monica.
Then came Loren Harrison. Loren was kind of a beach bum, who turned out to be a very wealthy aristocratic man who had a little business diving off the coast of near Dana Point. Loren Harrison was known not only for being able to catch great waves and being a great waterman, but as an aficionado of the Hawaiian canoe. He took the Hawaiian canoe and raced them; in fact he almost died in a Hawaiian canoe.
These were my heroes, but now there were two more: one that came after that generation and one that came before. The one that came before was Tom Blake, friend of the Dukes who went back as far as the 20’s, the inventor of the paddleboard. The other was the generation after that, the generation of Phil Edwards, perhaps the greatest stylist of all time. Ah, Phil was a man who rode a surfboard like Nijinsky, the great ballet dancer.
These were my heroes, and by the way all of them still are.
Well, there you are.
Aloha to you, keep surfing with Aloha.